If fertiliser must be stored outside, then it should be kept out of sight and away from public access. Fertiliser should be covered with heavy-duty waterproof plastic or canvas. However, it might be more effective to build a compound from security fencing, with locking gates.
Recommended types of anti-intruder fences include:
Fences should conform to British Standard BS 1722-18:2011, which partly depends upon the style of fencing required.
Palisade fencing is formed from vertical ‘pales’, often with pointed or splayed tops. It is popular because it is difficult to peer through and any damage can easily be repaired, with extension pales being simply added. However, palisade fencing offers no greater physical security than either weld mesh or expanded metal fences of the same height.
Expanded metal fences are very rigid and are difficult to cut through, with damage easily spotted. Repairs are likely to require whole panel replacement.
Welded mesh fencing offers good visibility, is difficult to cut and may be suitable for use with a fence alarm system.
A hostile topping, such as barbed tape or razor wire, serves as an added deterrent to a climbing attack. You’ll need to consider the Occupier’s Liability Act 1984 in relation to the height of the fence and the requirement for signage.
Higher fences offer greater protection against climbing intruders, but any fence above 2 metres (including any hostile topping) will need planning permission.
Fences can be made more secure by extending the fence below ground level and encasing the fence in a concrete sill.
Read more on security fencing
Gates are often the weak link in an otherwise secure area. Gates should be of the same security standard as the fence, and be fitted with anti-lift hinges. Think about the minimising gaps between posts and, in particular, the clearance beneath the bottom edge of the gate.
Gates should be secured with a close-shackle padlock or a standard padlock fitted with a shroud to prevent leverage.